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Those Complete Power Boosting & Drivetrain Mods..
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User avatar
By pulpmelon_r
#3089748
The oil pump that comes with the K24 is dog poo!

Its like the FN2 with balancer shafts that rob power, swapping for a moddifed k20 (prc) or stock rrc pump is worth 5 - 8hp and 1000 RPM :-D
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3089818
I have already printed off your how-to guide and im reading thoroughly.. At fear of being a nob... is it that simple? Also, if im using a K24A3 will i still need to get a hole drilled as i believe the A3 comes with an oil cooler setup and i will just be switching the pumps (oil & water)..is this correct?
User avatar
By RM CYA
#3091163
if built right, run in right, and mapped right, 'built' 'forged' motors last just like OEM motors do. Engines are usually thrown together asap, run in at a rush, and mapped sh-t. this is where the FAIL is.
User avatar
By pulpmelon_r
#3091599
RM CYA wrote:if built right, run in right, and mapped right, 'built' 'forged' motors last just like OEM motors do. Engines are usually thrown together asap, run in at a rush, and mapped sh-t. this is where the FAIL is.
I have to disagree on one point, forged 2618 pistons need a lot of piston to wall clearance as they expand much more than OEM cast items. You WILL have piston slap untill the motor is warm and the piston has reached the desired volume.

Piston slap wears bores, if you daily drive on 2618 it will not last as long as cast.
But 2618 can take heat, shock and detonation like a champ.

The good news is theres alot of companies running with forged 4032 alloy now which contains more silicone for less thermal expansion, makes the pistons capable of running tighter and improving longevity. Not as tough as 2618 or as light as cast though.

Purely in my opinion of course.... 2618 for race / high boost, 4032 for track+road N/A / mid boost, Cast for everything else.
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3091624
pulpmelon_r wrote:
RM CYA wrote:if built right, run in right, and mapped right, 'built' 'forged' motors last just like OEM motors do. Engines are usually thrown together asap, run in at a rush, and mapped sh-t. this is where the FAIL is.
I have to disagree on one point, forged 2618 pistons need a lot of piston to wall clearance as they expand much more than OEM cast items. You WILL have piston slap untill the motor is warm and the piston has reached the desired volume.

Piston slap wears bores, if you daily drive on 2618 it will not last as long as cast.
But 2618 can take heat, shock and detonation like a champ.

The good news is theres alot of companies running with forged 4032 alloy now which contains more silicone for less thermal expansion, makes the pistons capable of running tighter and improving longevity. Not as tough as 2618 or as light as cast though.

Purely in my opinion of course.... 2618 for race / high boost, 4032 for track+road N/A / mid boost, Cast for everything else.
What the hell do you do for a living?? How do you know all this?? All very good info :bigthumb:
User avatar
By andy18s
#3093060
phunkmasterd wrote:I have already printed off your how-to guide and im reading thoroughly.. At fear of being a nob... is it that simple? Also, if im using a K24A3 will i still need to get a hole drilled as i believe the A3 comes with an oil cooler setup and i will just be switching the pumps (oil & water)..is this correct?
Use the k24a3 waterpump and oil cooler. Just modify the oil pump to fit and use the k20 baffle plate, then block the oil jet coming through :bigthumb: No drilling required.
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I used the bolt that was on my k20 block with hondabond to block the oil jet up.


See you still obsessed with the built motor... unless you going to go for cams and the full whack your power is going to drop off at about 7200rpm with the standard type R head, so bear that in mind when wanting to go built and rev to 9000.
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3093078
On the guide it states to use the k20 water pump :scratch: Im a little confused now ??

I spoke with the guys at TDI north and to do what i was hoping would cost an extra £3000 so that isnt happening anytime soon.. i just want to get the car back on the road
User avatar
By pulpmelon_r
#3093089
phunkmasterd wrote:On the guide it states to use the k20 water pump :scratch: Im a little confused now ??

I spoke with the guys at TDI north and to do what i was hoping would cost an extra £3000 so that isnt happening anytime soon.. i just want to get the car back on the road
Just Run a stock block, you can still make some decent power.

RRC pump fits without modifaction, but they are about £300 I think.
User avatar
By andy18s
#3093124
phunkmasterd wrote:On the guide it states to use the k20 water pump :scratch: Im a little confused now ??

I spoke with the guys at TDI north and to do what i was hoping would cost an extra £3000 so that isnt happening anytime soon.. i just want to get the car back on the road
Thats because their k24 versioned water pumps dont have the ports of the oil cooler.

The k24a3 already has that, so no need to swap out. I even used the k24 oil cooler, alternator, starter, waterpump then k20 idler pulley and crank shaft pulley :wink:
User avatar
By gavin_T
#3114754
This thread makes from interesting reading. Didnt even know this was possible until reading about it in total honda this month.

Has anyone put a supercharger on one? Could be a tempting plan if anything were to ever happen to my charged k20
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3114807
There would be no point supercharging one as the Torque delivery would be awful... I wish I could get Total Honda where I live, I dont know of any stockists..

You could turbo one... which if i come into some money i might do but it should be good fun as it is :)
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3175154
Just a quick question (possible stupid question).. if im replacing the head studs do i need k20 or k24 head studs? :scratch:
User avatar
By phunkmasterd
#3249968
Right over the next few days I will do my write up on how I have gotten on..Its been a bloody long time without a car (7 months), but only being able to drive to the misses at weekends and work on it between seeing her and working on the car have meant slow progress. I have photo graphed every step I have taken and so I will do what I can to help other decide if this is the path for them.
User avatar
By RsAMD
#3251538
gavin_T wrote: Has anyone put a supercharger on one? Could be a tempting plan if anything were to ever happen to my charged k20
just did it half a year ago with k24a3. it has the tq at 3k that i had with a k20jrsc at 7k. peak power was about the same because of the lower revlimit. car feels much stronger vs k20.
User avatar
By teagie89
#3314274
phunkmasterd wrote:Right over the next few days I will do my write up on how I have gotten on..Its been a bloody long time without a car (7 months), but only being able to drive to the misses at weekends and work on it between seeing her and working on the car have meant slow progress. I have photo graphed every step I have taken and so I will do what I can to help other decide if this is the path for them.
Any up-date on this mate? Really intresting read. Didn't know much about these before. Hope its all going ok. Cheers mate. Teagie.

Hello guys, My name is Mauro, i am from Portugal […]