- Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:12 pm
#3200965
all sorted now but here's some info for you forum member's-
Dc5 hydraulic rack conversion for the ep3(belt sizes needed folks)
so if my sums are right for anyone wanting to do the dc5 hydraulic rack conversion to there non A/C model ep3 the belt size needed will be a 7pk 1345........................... (a 6pk can also be used but i prefer a 7pk)
03NHBtyper who's done the conversion to his A/C model ep3 used a 7pk..............1702mm belt..............
the standard belt size for a a/c model ep3 is- 7pk...............1640mm
thats a 62mm difference
a standard ep3 NON A/C model belt size is 1283MM...............
Add 62mm onto that gets you a belt size of 1345mm for the auxiliary belt needed to run the dc5 hydraulic set up on a NON A/C model ep3
those sizes are for GATES belts by the way,
The Alternator belt
The alternator belt on the Honda engine not only drives the alternator itself, but also the water pump.
If it starts to squeel when it's damp or cold then most likely the belt is worn out, or a wrong one is fitted.
The required belt should be for the Honda Civic EP3 TypeR WITHOUT A/C compressor. You can obtain one from the Honda dealer.
Cross-reference part numbers
A less costly option is to buy a generic replacement:
Goodyear 7PK1287
GATES 7PK1283
Do not use the GATES 7PK1290. It seems to work, but it will slip on the pulleys as it's just a little too long.
Replacing
Replacing the belt is not hard, but a little fiddly.
The Honda engine uses a spring-loaded belt tensioner, so it is not needed to manually tension the belt using the alternator like on the Rover engine.
Look throuhgh the side intake to see how the belt is routed across the pulleys.
To remove the old belt, put a size 14 spanner on the center bolt of the tensioner wheel and push it clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt. On an S2 with a Honda engine you can also use a swivel joint on a long extention bar and access the tensioner from the side air intake on the right hand side using a socket and ratchet.
Once the belt tension is relieved, slip it off the top idler pulley and carefully release the tensioner.
You can now remove the old belt from the crank pulley and remove it from the car.
Fitting the new belt is the reverse. Thread it in place andmake sure it's aligned properly on the crank pulley.
Push the tensioner clockwise again and work the belt over the top idler pulley edges.
Make sure it's sitting centered on the alternator, idler pulley and crank pulley. Check that it's also centered on the waterpump and tensioner roller/pulley. Gently allow the tensioner to take up the slack in the belt and let it tighten fully.
Once everything looks OK, start the engine and let it run a few minutes to distribute the tension on the belt evenly across it's length.
All done!
Dc5 hydraulic rack conversion for the ep3(belt sizes needed folks)
so if my sums are right for anyone wanting to do the dc5 hydraulic rack conversion to there non A/C model ep3 the belt size needed will be a 7pk 1345........................... (a 6pk can also be used but i prefer a 7pk)
03NHBtyper who's done the conversion to his A/C model ep3 used a 7pk..............1702mm belt..............
the standard belt size for a a/c model ep3 is- 7pk...............1640mm
thats a 62mm difference
a standard ep3 NON A/C model belt size is 1283MM...............
Add 62mm onto that gets you a belt size of 1345mm for the auxiliary belt needed to run the dc5 hydraulic set up on a NON A/C model ep3
those sizes are for GATES belts by the way,
The Alternator belt
The alternator belt on the Honda engine not only drives the alternator itself, but also the water pump.
If it starts to squeel when it's damp or cold then most likely the belt is worn out, or a wrong one is fitted.
The required belt should be for the Honda Civic EP3 TypeR WITHOUT A/C compressor. You can obtain one from the Honda dealer.
Cross-reference part numbers
A less costly option is to buy a generic replacement:
Goodyear 7PK1287
GATES 7PK1283
Do not use the GATES 7PK1290. It seems to work, but it will slip on the pulleys as it's just a little too long.
Replacing
Replacing the belt is not hard, but a little fiddly.
The Honda engine uses a spring-loaded belt tensioner, so it is not needed to manually tension the belt using the alternator like on the Rover engine.
Look throuhgh the side intake to see how the belt is routed across the pulleys.
To remove the old belt, put a size 14 spanner on the center bolt of the tensioner wheel and push it clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt. On an S2 with a Honda engine you can also use a swivel joint on a long extention bar and access the tensioner from the side air intake on the right hand side using a socket and ratchet.
Once the belt tension is relieved, slip it off the top idler pulley and carefully release the tensioner.
You can now remove the old belt from the crank pulley and remove it from the car.
Fitting the new belt is the reverse. Thread it in place andmake sure it's aligned properly on the crank pulley.
Push the tensioner clockwise again and work the belt over the top idler pulley edges.
Make sure it's sitting centered on the alternator, idler pulley and crank pulley. Check that it's also centered on the waterpump and tensioner roller/pulley. Gently allow the tensioner to take up the slack in the belt and let it tighten fully.
Once everything looks OK, start the engine and let it run a few minutes to distribute the tension on the belt evenly across it's length.
All done!
Last edited by jreedy on Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Arden blue Astra GSi--VXR engine--Stage 2 hybrid turbo--RS Tuning Map-----305/350 (dyno dynamics)
