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[dude17ctr]

nice motor :salut:

[lukits01]

nice motor :salut:

cheers
mmm +40Hp

[estornino]

+40
Where are you getting the power from? Apart from fd2 intake manifold

Thank you for posting your mods, you inspirate a lot of people :thumbup:

[lukits01]

Here's a few details that I've updated on the first post.
I'll get around to writing about the intake and ECU later, there's a lot of info there to digest and its still a work in progress
Safe to say its something people have been saying but never bothered to try out
I found a lot of helpfull info from US 8th gen civic forum
Those guys are great! They've been doing a lot of R&D on our generation of civics

JDM FD2R RRC Intake Manifold + Spoon 70mm Venturi TB






Yep, it all fits. Thankfully, there's enough space in the FN2 engine bay to fit the JDM manifold, unlike the EP3 where you need to cut the radiator support. Its still a very tight fit though. The Throttlebody plugs in with no modification, and runs fine with the stock ECU. If you do decide to change to RBC/RRB/RRC manifold on stock ECU, I noticed my idle did become slightly more eratic especially with the A/C on.

One close look at the FN2 manifold and it would seem Honda had to compromise for our smaller engine bay. Our RSP manifold has longer runners that curl down into the plenum chamber similar to DC5/EP3 PRB/PRC manifolds. It was probably designed to give the FN2 more low down torque for day to day use.

After the swap, I can't say I felt any loss of low down torque, the engine seems to rev smoother. Performance wise, theres definitely a noticable gain up top, this is probably due to the short runner design of the JDM manifold.

B106 Carbon Fiber Race Battery

If you're thinking why would anyone spend $300 on a battery that has lower capacity and can't run 11 subwoofers, then you're looking at this from the wrong angle. What other weightsaving measure would lose you 12-13Kg from over the front axle for $300? no Dry Carbon panel will do that, and certainly none is as easy to install. I drive the car some 60Km per day for work, and where I live it doesn't get that cold during winter, so I don't have to worry about the battery going flat. As a plus point this opens up a lot of space in the engine bay to mount other things.

P2R Power Package

Basically this is a:
Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket
Thermal Throttle body gasket
Throttle Body spacer
Throttle Body coolant bypass

The Intake Manifold gasket is a lot of work to put on for questionable gain but since I was changing it anyway decided to put it on. The spacer and TB gasket was just a bonus that came with the package.
Throttle plate freezing is never going to be a problem where I live, so I bypassed the coolant line going to the TB as well. Results is actually noticable to the touch. After a hard drive (with plenty of airflow) the intake manifold is cool enough to hold, the TB stay pretty much room temperature.

Custom 2.5" Mandrel Bend Exhaust

It may not look like much but atleast it performs, my exhaust is really just a stop gap untill a decent aftermarket one comes up.
I don't think its particularly hard to make an exhaust that makes decent power gain. Just make a straight 2.5" mandrel bends with no mufflers and resonators and I gurantee it'll make power. The challenge is to make an exhaust that does all that but sounds nice, and not too loud. Not worrying about these 2 points, I just choose a straight through muffler and got piping made for it. Loud as hell, but atleast the gain is there.

Ingalls Engineering Power Stick

Basically replaces the dog bone engine mount on the driver side with a solid mount. Helps with removing engine flex, especially wheel hop during hard launches. In the DC5/EP3 engine movement used to crack headers/exhaust and destroy engine mounts. Thought this would help a bit. It does help with wheel hop, slight downside is theres slight vibrations in steering wheel and pedals. Also engine noise is slightly louder. Still nowhere near as bad as a full solid engine mount though.

Whats next?

I'm still waiting on headers, probably the last piece of the puzzle.
DC5 and FG2 headers dont fit the FN2 The lengths are slightly different, and the angle of the cat is completely different.

[Fire_2]

Awesome thread,

I'll look forward to reading what next

[lukits01]

here's whats next

Mod: Gruppe M Custom Intake based on FD2 kit

Comments: Ok, this is complicated and took a lot of work, and yet I'm still not finish! But I must say after all hair pulling, head scratching, headaches that I went through; hearing the sound of the VTEC switchover for the first time was Teh S3x! Sounds incredible! Very different to the DC5/EP3 box, and fantastically loud, I can't even hear my exhaust over the intake roar!

I'll try to explain as much as I can from the top of my head the ammount of work it took to fit this. Before you even consider buying the intake, solve these first few issues:

1. Engine Bay Space
Our enginebay is a bit smaller than the FD2 enginebay.
The Gruppe M box will literally sit halfway into our ECU.
So you would need to relocate the ECU further to the side.
Unfortunately, this is easier said than done. There's absolutely no space left in the enginebay and there isnt much slack left in the engine harness.
I had to free up some space by downsizing the battery and removing all of the standard intake system. This makes it possible to reroute the harness underneath the Gruppe M box and relocate the ECU where the battery used to be. Note that the harness is secured by multiple brackets that you will have to remove. Take great care when securing the harness with cable ties.

2. AFM Adapter
The FD2 K20A does not come with AFM, but ours do. Its very important to keep the inlet track from the AFM down as stock as possible to keep safe AFR. I found some ppl making adapters on 8th gen civic forum but even then its quite hard to come by, everybody wants them (understandably). Another alternative is to chop up the AFM mount on your stock box, sand it down and mount it using silicone hoses.

3. Cowl Modification
The FD2 cowl is much bigger than the FN2 cowl, so the scoop wont fit completely over the stock one. Might want to consider buying a spare cowl from Honda, that way you can take your time cutting the passage for the scoop, and fibreglassing the missing space at the end of the cowl. Also, it helps if you adjust the windscreen wipers upwards just a tad, to give more clearance to the scoop.

Now... if you have all of the above covered, go ahead and order the intake. When the kit arrives, throw the following in the bin: FD2 Cowl, Carbon Battery Cover, Alloy Heatshield, bottom mounting bracket. These things wont fit without some more cutting and shaping, you'll be doing a lot of this anyway. hahha Start with the rubber intake tubing, figure out how to connect the rubber tube to the AFM adapter then to the pod filter. Mount the pod and box following the Gruppe M instructions using the supplied bracket, mounting points are the same.

The top Funnel and the cowl scoop will depend on how much effort you are willing to put in. First you would need to cut the alluminium shield thats below the cowl, just follow the Gruppe M instructions. If you mount the box the right way, there is enough clearance between the bonnet and the funnel when bonnet is closed. You just need to pick the right spot to cut through the passage. I suggest using a drennel to make things tidy and cover up the rough edges using U-clamps.

Once you got the funnel mounted inside the cowl, you can either call it a day, as the intake will draw cold air from that space. Or you can take it a step further and attempt to mount the scoop. I am still trying to figure out the best way to do this. There's no avoiding some fibreglass and bog work, plus repainting the whole cowl.

Rating out of 5: 4.5/5

Price/Where from: Gruppe M Japan

Picture:

[woolz]

that gruppeM looks awsome mate!!! very jelous!

[mr_flan]

total respect man, awesome work!

...i might just wait until GruppeM does the work for me though.

:thumbup:

[antb]

hats off to you mate what a lovely car good job :thumbup:

[joeke]

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

[sauluk]

Stunning, good work mate!. If you could be bothered i'd say definitely send a copy of the method for getting the FD2 Gruppe M into the FD2 so that they can try and modify it to produce some FN2 copies to send over here! you've basically done the work for them! I think the guys email address is [email protected] and his name (unsurprisingly) is Hoya.

[mr_flan]

Stunning, good work mate!. If you could be bothered i'd say definitely send a copy of the method for getting the FD2 Gruppe M into the FD2 so that they can try and modify it to produce some FN2 copies to send over here! you've basically done the work for them! I think the guys email address is [email protected] and his name (unsurprisingly) is Hoya.

i like ya style Sauluk..down stairs for dancing and all that

[lukits01]

Stunning, good work mate!. If you could be bothered i'd say definitely send a copy of the method for getting the FD2 Gruppe M into the FD2 so that they can try and modify it to produce some FN2 copies to send over here! you've basically done the work for them! I think the guys email address is [email protected] and his name (unsurprisingly) is Hoya.

When Gruppe M get their act together and actually make one for FN2 I doubt it would be anything like what I did.
They would shape the carbon box to fit our engine bay, therefore eliminating all the hassle I had to go through.
So I'd say cross your fingers and hope they get around to it. I'm just not a very patient man ahahah

[JohnnoTypeR]

Stunning, good work mate!. If you could be bothered i'd say definitely send a copy of the method for getting the FD2 Gruppe M into the FD2 so that they can try and modify it to produce some FN2 copies to send over here! you've basically done the work for them! I think the guys email address is [email protected] and his name (unsurprisingly) is Hoya.

When Gruppe M get their act together and actually make one for FN2 I doubt it would be anything like what I did.
They would shape the carbon box to fit our engine bay, therefore eliminating all the hassle I had to go through.
So I'd say cross your fingers and hope they get around to it. I'm just not a very patient man ahahah

Top job fella id love to hear it post video's of the Gruppe M :thumbup:

[sauluk]

When Gruppe M get their act together and actually make one for FN2 I doubt it would be anything like what I did.
They would shape the carbon box to fit our engine bay, therefore eliminating all the hassle I had to go through.
So I'd say cross your fingers and hope they get around to it. I'm just not a very patient man ahahah

Problem is they don't have an FN2 in Japan so can't develop one, that's why I mentioned that if you gave them your method maybe they'd copy it, but maybe not and then we'll never get one

[estornino]

Problem is they don't have an FN2 in Japan so can't develop one, that's why I mentioned that if you gave them your method maybe they'd copy it, but maybe not and then we'll never get one

Take a look to this thread, http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/view ... 8&t=163894
since there are fresh news about fn2 gruppe-M.

BTW, lukits are you sure about the torque values? Your's is as high as EVO turbo engine.
EDIT: Don't worry about my last question. I've done a quick search on the net and i've found how aussi dynos work and how to transform this meassures to the normal figures. So (if my maths have worked fine, you got 283.48 NM that is a very good value. )

Thank you very much for posting your mods and congratulations for your hard work.

[estornino]

Hey, do you have pics of the car with the interior B-pillar removed?
Thnx

[pinjas]

283nm of torque it is a little strange. with a stock engine + grupe m and some motec tuning hmmmm

people with ep3 with race header + cat back and k pro + cai does not get so much torque

[lukits01]

Sorry guys, I have no idea how to convert Dyno numbers from Australian Standards to UK Standards.
But I can guarantee you the car has torque! I just got back from the race track OMG! the car is an animal, midrange is awesome! I'm never out of VTEC coming out of a corner. Downside was the torque steer the extra power generated coming out of some of the tighter corners. Spent a few runs sorting out the suspension settings and tire pressures managed to solve the torque steer. By the end of the night, it was handling like a gem! 1200Kg + KWv3 + R888 == FTW!

Managed a 58.8 lap on Barbagello short track, my instructor reckons with a bit more time, the car is able to do high 57s! To get some idea of lap times modified cars do at Barbagello short:http://www.nolimitevents.com/e107_plugi ... ic.php?723

Unfortunately my in car camera wasn't working, but managed to find time to film fly bys from the pits, will post a vid later.
Gimme a moment and I'll post a pic of whats left of my interior, I stripped the interior B-pillar back lost some 60Kg! Got to the weight bridge, it read 1217Kg with half tank. Not too shabby at all, I think after removing sound deadening and changing to full bucket seats, I should be able to reach 1200Kg fully fueled with air bags.

[estornino]

That's great. I have another question, Have you removed the insulation under the bonet? And please post pics of the b-pillar bar removed.