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By evilowl
#1726171
lukits01 wrote:that's what I've been told time and time again, but has anyone here actually suffered fatal oil surge?
I'd like to know the circumstances...
Here's what I find peculiar, DC5 one-make race in Japan, doesn't use baffled sump, but they are fine.
JAS motor sport FN2 Gr.R package, does not come with baffled sump.
Yes, several people on here have. Here's one guy - donald. The circumstances were as I described - semi slick tyres and long bends

http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/view ... 17&t=95244

Also a post from scuffers who races K20-engined Lotus Elises (I highlighted the important bit in bold):
Scuffers wrote:I can see your point about the Mugen one, what's that supposed to do?

not 100% impressed by the spoon one either, they seem to have missed the point of what happends in a sump, it's about looking at where the oil drains down into the sump and how to keep it from running off to the sides as anything.

this is another 'interesting' design (this came out of an engine that died due to oil starvation)

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problem with this type is how the oil is supposed to get into the 'box'?

when looking at designes, remeber the oil pump is rated at some 55l per minute (@6000 Rpm), this means it takes some 6 sec's for it to pump the entire oil contents of the engine, thus unless you have a very effective way of returning oil to the pickup, you can get into starvation VERY quickly.

Other point to mention is that there is no such think as a perfect sump baffle(s), at the end of the day, you are still relying on gravity to get the oil back down the engine (from the head), and once the side loads get up to a point, this will just not happen effectivly. That said, in the testing I have done on this with my race car (Elise) baffles are effective to the limit's of the car's grip.
#1727134
lukits01 wrote:thanks for that evilowl
I'll keep that in mind
Long Corners+Semi slicks+High RPM=Bad

With those cases... any idea what their oil levels were like?
also doubt this boat can generate as much Gs as a lotus hehe
With the K20's it's good to actually overfill the oil a tiny bit, even with normal road tyres in the summer. The standard RE040's on the EP3 still generate a fair bit of grip when they have warmed up, nowhere near as much as R tyres but it's honestly not worth the risk in doing otherwise.

Donald's car was in a fairly high state of tune, I would guess his oil levels were fine. There have been others who have suffered starvation, it's just he's the one I remember.
#1867941
Haven't updated this thread for awhile
thought I'd post a few more pics and vid from an Auto-X event
I'm still too conservative with braking and throttle I reckon



Manage to make some DIY brake ducts
Not for the faint hearted, had to cut a bit of the wheel arc lining as well as dumping of the windscreen washer bottle

Also a bit of rice thanks to J's Racing never hurts LoL
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#1881050
Sold my 17*7.5 ET48 SSR Type-C recently...
replaced it with another set of SSR Type-C (RS Model) ahahha
This time 17*8 ET38 in Gun Metal + 235/45/17 Toyo R888
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It didn't make sense to me that the FN2 would get the same width tires as EP3 and DC5 knowing that it was a heavier car, so I opted for wider rims and tires. The main incentive was because 235 width semi slicks are significantly cheaper here than other sizes.

While I'm at it, after doing some calculations, I wanted to increase the front and rear track as much as possible, with this combo the track is some 46mm wider. Wouldn't advise it to most people. The rears really do sit flush with the guard, it was rubbing the guard by some 2mm which I trimmed off. The front was helped by running -2.5 deg camber but still needed some cutting of the guard liner and trimming of the fenders.

I was never happy with how the Bridgestone RE55S were working on this car, so I thought I'd give Toyo R888 a go. I went to another round of Auto-X with them and they were fantastic! Grip was available from cold! with the Bridgestone I was always worried that the rears have not heated up enough, but with the Toyos I was confident from the start, cut almost 1 sec of my time from the increased confidence alone. I suspect they probably wont perform as well on the track, but I'll find out soon enough.

Also changed my wheel nuts to Project Kicks R40
The RAYS Duralumin Wheel nuts were poor quality!
they chip too damn easily and turn pink after awhile.
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#1900284
CHERN wrote:Just read about you CTR... Man, big respect to you! :thumbup: :thumbup:
I've got the same color CTR as yours and also have Toyos on :-D
What pressure do u use on Toyos during the racing (Hot and Cold Inflation Pressures)?

Thanx
Auto-X and hill climb Cold Pressures of F31Psi R32Psi
havent tried it for the track yet, will probably lower it another psi
Im aiming for 34Psi hot, havent done enough tire pressure testing on these yet to figure out what feels best for the car
but it certainly works! I cut 2 secs of my previous hill climb run on Bridgestone RE55S
#1900602
wow :smile:
but why do u have less pressure on the front than on the rear? To reduce understeer?
I've gor 205/40R17 Toyos. And have only once tested them on track (last sunday), but pressure was too big for them... about 2.8 bar (hot). (must they have the same pressure as for 235/45R17?)
When i put them off, i saw that the rears were not worn evenly.
First of all i need to install chamber (and stuff) settings. I think i will do it in the nearest future.
But do these agressive suspension setting do any harm to stock wheel or suspention itself, during every day city driving?

(sorry for my English. havn't spoken and written for a long time =)
#1901182
CHERN wrote:wow :smile:
but why do u have less pressure on the front than on the rear? To reduce understeer?
I've gor 205/40R17 Toyos. And have only once tested them on track (last sunday), but pressure was too big for them... about 2.8 bar (hot). (must they have the same pressure as for 235/45R17?)
When i put them off, i saw that the rears were not worn evenly.
First of all i need to install chamber (and stuff) settings. I think i will do it in the nearest future.
But do these agressive suspension setting do any harm to stock wheel or suspention itself, during every day city driving?

(sorry for my English. havn't spoken and written for a long time =)
The fronts will heat up faster than the rear, end result is roughly 34Psi all round
My rears arent wearing evenly either, hopefully will solve that with Eibach shim kits thats coming in, and finally be able to get rid of that damn toe in.
Also, doubt allignment settings we can get from the stock Mcpherson setup will do any harm to stock gear.
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