The largest Civic Type R club forum

Established in 2002 it brings together people from all over the world to discuss their one love of Type R's.

Let it breathe...
User avatar
By TypeR_Maybe
#2098926
Newannaive wrote:I agree 100%...I had an oem airbox and hondata mod/K+N drop in...I would definitely have that over and above ANY open cone induction kit. :thumbup:
hi there, you mention a hondata mode kit, what is that??
User avatar
By Damian1
#2098951
TypeR_Maybe wrote:
Newannaive wrote:I agree 100%...I had an oem airbox and hondata mod/K+N drop in...I would definitely have that over and above ANY open cone induction kit. :thumbup:
hi there, you mention a hondata mode kit, what is that??[/quote

Where does it say 'mode' kit :scratch:
User avatar
By neogeo
#2109522
HA HA, you guys are funny with open cones are crap etc etc.....I've owned HONDA's since the day I passed my test, Ive had CRX vtec's all the way to my current FN2 civic and Ive run open cone filters on all my cars with no problems at all. If you want one buy one, if you dont then people should keep their mouths shut and stop talking sh**, cause if you think you know it all then you should be some engineer for some amazing race team giving advise.
At the end of the day its only a freaking CAR!!
User avatar
By Damian1
#2109557
Your right, we should all keep our mouths shut and not comment on anything regardless of personal experiance or otherwise. Of course that would mean we no longer live in a free world and it would also be the end of the forum.
User avatar
By chopstah
#2117509
ok i think most of us have established that the standard airbox gives better gains than the v2, but is there a huge difference in power? how much power exactly is the v2 losing over the standard airbox? im sure it would be compulsory for us to know if we all were building our cars for a racing team where every bit counts, but in the real world im certain a couple bhp here or there doesnt make much of a difference. imo its the driving experience matters most which is why the sound in the v2 alone is worth having.
#2118154
get the V1 AEM CAI which is located in the wing, as long as you have a hydro shield to keep water splashes out and dont drive through any deep puddles then you have the best of both worlds - nice sounding induction roar and bhp gain over standard!
User avatar
By STU-CTR
#2149922
But that 13hp loss was on a rolling road not driving around on the road where most of the heat built up is being sucked out of the engine bay. Surely this is making things worse in terms of heatsoak/performance drop even with the fans on?

Is it not?
:scratch:
User avatar
By slideordie
#2164690
ABP MOTORSPORT wrote:Interestingly take a look at the filter used by Roger Clarks Gobstopper, quite possibly the best Impreza in the country and 2008 Time Attack winner, you guessed it an open K&N cone filter :wink:
http://images.turbomagazine.com/feature ... ne_bay.jpg

Now get to the doctors before that cough gets any worse :wink:

Chris
ABP
Thats cos its on a turbocharged car :lol: dear me
#2164863
slideordie wrote:
ABP MOTORSPORT wrote:Interestingly take a look at the filter used by Roger Clarks Gobstopper, quite possibly the best Impreza in the country and 2008 Time Attack winner, you guessed it an open K&N cone filter :wink:
http://images.turbomagazine.com/feature ... ne_bay.jpg

Now get to the doctors before that cough gets any worse :wink:

Chris
ABP
Thats cos its on a turbocharged car :lol: dear me
Ahhhhhh, so turbo charged cars have immunity from the dreaded heat-soak issues then......... :scratch:

Chris
ABP
User avatar
By Bales
#2165809
This is my first post on here but after reading the thread it strikes me as odd that not one person has mentioned pressure drop? and most people seem just to be talking a load of hot air!! :P :oops: (sorry I though it was a good one anyway!)

Surely this is just as important if not more so than the dreaded heat soak everyone keeps talking about.

Using basic physics you have 14.7psi of pressure forcing the air into the cylinders, if you have a standard airbox with all the little resonance chambers in that help to reduce noise and the torturous route that the air has to make from the front of the car through the ducting through the airbox, through the filter and then 90deg into the inlet then you can easily lose a couple of psi in pressure drop.

Thats the same as having a turbocharged car and running 18psi of boost compared to 20psi of boost, i.e a noticeable difference. Using a open filter with either a short ram intake or a smooth curved inlet pipe is obviously a lot less restrictive to the flow of the air merely from the fact that the air has about half the distance to travel through and without any major restrictions. The air may be slightly hotter yes but if it is ducted well and has a nice supply of cool air from the front of the car then I would find it hard to make the case for the standard airbox and ducting making more power as it is just physics really.

Also the above comment made about that impreza being turbocharged and that is why an open filter helps is a very strange view. Tuning N/A and FI cars is exactly the same, I don't get why people think they are different, its just like having a car on a different planet where the atmospheric pressure might be 2 bar rather than 1 bar!! They still work in the same way. The only real differences are in cam choice and exhaust sizing.

At the end of the day though regarding induction kits, with my car the open filter transforms the way the car sounds and feels which makes the experience of driving the car so much nicer for me. Its not a race car so every 10th doesnt count so whether you lose or gain a couple of bhp doesn't bother me, surely if you get more enjoyment out of the car then thats the main point?
User avatar
By Cerberous
#2168981
One thing that bugs me about this whole argument is has any one sat down and taken air temperature readings from each induction kit (hell all of the ones available would be nice).

Add power gains on a stock car, with air speed and intake volume and pressure (i'm assuming this can all be tested, not being car engineer I don’t know) do this with bonnet on and off.

Doing this on a moving car instead of rolling road so real world wind speed changes can actually take effect instead of a fan blasting the car even when stationary

I know this involves an air field or strip and messing around changing kits with various probes attached to the car but it would silence 90% of the arguments and maybe quantify the costs of some of the kits
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