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User avatar
By Sai
#8780
Done it, the wiring to the door lock and electric windows can be unclipped.

I found it easier if you took the whole hand grip and the electric window switch unit out.

On the socket there are either a release clip at the top (door locks) and two release clips on both sides (electric windows) socket. They should just slide off when the clips are pushed in, or with the assistance of a small screw driver at the edges to prise it apart gently. 8)

One mistake I made was forcing the speakers off with a screw driver, I snapped the clips and them speakers are useless now. :?

There should be a clip at the top of each speaker and using a flat-head screw driver you should be able to push these in some-how, and you should be able to slide the speaker upwards and out they come... (this is looking at the plastic tabs I snapped off in the process) :roll:

There currently is no spacer brackets in the car audio shops. I was told I had to get some MDF brackets specially made to mount 6.5" speakers.

Should cost around 40 pounds including fitting. :wink:

Hopefully I should have mine sorted sunday afternoon when I get the connector plugs for the speakers.
User avatar
By dieselpower
#15315
Jon C wrote: B: At the point of the arrow you can very carefully pry open this whole panel with a flatface screwdriver, behind this you will also find a number of screws....only loosen the one at the far left. Now the door is free from the screwing part....;-)
There are 2 screws you have to take out. It's the 2 that are the furthest into the door. It took me 20 mins to work this out and now I've cracked my door card :evil: :cry:

Anyone know how much a new door card is??? :roll:

Apart from that this works a treat. Took me an hour the 1st time, just done it again and it took 3 mins to remove it, clip the door opener back on and refit the card!!! :D
User avatar
By jamesmckelvie
#19306
sounds not to bad to get it off - hope it is easier to put back on ?
User avatar
By dieselpower
#19312
It's a doddle to put back on!! Connect the door-opening wire & plastic clip, connect the window switch. Then hook it over the top of the door, make sure the lock pin sticks thru the hole, gently knock the clips back in around the edge. Put in the 3 screws, put on the plastic panels and woila - job done :D
User avatar
By jamesmckelvie
#19314
nice one - thanks - if you remove them, does it introduce rattles?
User avatar
By dieselpower
#19316
As long as you're careful and don't break the clips when you take the card off you'll be fine.

Driving around with the panel removed causes rattles!!!! :D
User avatar
By AustinDangerPowers
#20741
Don't know if anyone is interested, but I have taken step-bystep pics for removing the door card.......have absolutely no idea how to put them on here.............so.....help.

If anyone can explain how to put them on the site, I'll do it....or if anyone wants me to e-mail them, just let me know. 8)

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User avatar
By Conrad'67
#26879
I had to make a wooden interface between the three hole door panel speaker mount and the four holes on new speakers. Done this out of wood. The result is diabolical! Have ordered component speakers and new head unit to go with the 2xPioneer subs.

The OE ICE is pants.
User avatar
By dieselpower
#26915
What kinda wood did you make it out of Conrad?? I made mine out of 18mm MDF and it now sounds superb! Did what you did - 3 holes in the spacer to bolt it to the door and 4 holes in the spacer for speaker.
User avatar
By gpt
#26952
For those of you with high-speed internet, one of the EP Hatch members paxie has recorded some videos on how to take off the door card and how to remove the head unit. You can find them here http://paxie.digitalgumball.com

Thanks Paxie!!!
User avatar
By PaX
#27141
gpt wrote:For those of you with high-speed internet, one of the EP Hatch members paxie has recorded some videos on how to take off the door card and how to remove the head unit. You can find them here http://paxie.digitalgumball.com

Thanks Paxie!!!

No problem. It's a short Frames video but I have the Real Video and indetail instructions too at my web site.
User avatar
By Conrad'67
#27226
Main sound quality problem is probably the cheap Pioneers I bought. They were only 30 quid but I thought the OE was that bad that anything to replace them would be better. I was very wrong. I'll give the components a go with the wood interfaces I made and maybe dynamat the area of the door in which they're located.

Moral of the story .o0 Quality comes at a cost 0o.
User avatar
By MR G
#88930
Jon C wrote:Hi, Here comes a description of how to remove the door cards of our cars !
Read and follow step by step then everything will work without damaging the
door card, Good Luck everybody !

A: Behind the "handle" here you will find a small hole in which you put a small screwdriver or something else and push inwards, this will result in the "silver" part of your handle will pop out. Behind this you will find a couple of screws....it is only the top one you need to loosen.

B: At the point of the arrow you can very carefully pry open this whole panel with a flatface screwdriver, behind this you will also find a number of screws....only loosen the one at the far left. Now the door is free from the screwing part....;-)

C: Where the C-arrow points you will find an opening in the plastic....this is where you use a flatface screwdriver to carefully pull outwards (towards you ) which will make the doorcard pop out piece by piece...then just follow the edge of the card around so you can feel that the card loosens totally from the door.

Now comes the tricky part, take the card and pull it upwards along the thick arrow at the top...when you feel that the card has let go from the "lockpin" you carefully pull it away from the a-pillar, this will loosen the card even more from the door. Now the only thing left to do is disconnect the card from the door ( the electricwindows and the "dooropener" ) by pulling easily at the connections.

Now you should have your doorcard in your hand, hopefully !
Image
Excellent 'how to' :thumbup:
I've just done this and first side took about 30 mins,the other about 3 mins :!:
Only thing was,i found i had to undo another screw(the deep middle one) after taking off 'B',mines a '52 model,don't know if Honda changed it :?
User avatar
By lukeyboy
#261924
I've just used this how to and found it quite useful. What it should say is be really careful when trying to pop out the white plastic fasteners as I destroyed a couple on each door. I'm a bit worried it might start rattling (where's my silicone gun???)
I also encountered problems using the vauxhall astra spacers, I had located the speaker slightly off the centre of the door card speaker opening, door card would not go back on. I got round this by mounting the speakers more or less directly into the door. I cut the steel to make the hole slightly bigger and cut down the thickness of the spacer, I also dynamatted the surround. Plus, unless you can totally remove the door card from the cental locking mechanism and can get a bit arkward. I also found the door card needs a bit of working to get it back on near the wing mirror backing.
Why cant they make the fronts as easy as the back speakers??
The car does however sound mint with infinities all round. :D
User avatar
By RobL
#583633
Jon

Where did u get the price for the inserts? Just phoned my local honda (deVires, in Hull) and they wanted 16+VAT for it!! Cheeky T*ats! :evil:

Cheers! :lol:
User avatar
By dubme
#969139
anybody flogging some 04 door cards ,wouldent mind a pair.
cheers
User avatar
By davegti6
#1003569
Ive spent an hour today replacing the drivers window rubber seal, the old one was f*cked! Thank god i read this thread before i attempted to take the door card off! All sorted now and all thanks to this site! im lovin the how to's..... 8)
User avatar
By voodoo
#1087302
Ive just had to remove the door card on my CTR due to some idiot smashing my wingmirror into smitherines. Stupid god damn concrete post came out of no-where and cracked the casing and mirror. Id have got his details but it was like talking to a brick wall /concrete post.

</Comedy Mode>

Seriously, just used this guide and it was fantastic. I did have to remove another screw in the centre part but thats been mentioned before. Took me about 10 mins in total and that was being uber careful.

Cant say how much things like this are appreciated.

TY
User avatar
By davidmaiden18183
#1343326
anyone got a copy of the picture that oringinally came with this how to guide.


....its not loading anymore
User avatar
By GreaseLightning
#1630218
Thanks to the thread starter for this guide.

Tbh I actually found it easier to remove the grip and electric window switch parts of the doorcard to be fitted beforehand. That way I only had to concentrate on hooking up 1 or 2 (in the case of the driver's side) connections and I could just poke the e/w connection through the hole and connect that once the card was in place. The reason being that I found it a bit tricky to line the card up to get over the door locking pin at the top with the length of wire available once the connections are made.

Perhaps it's just me, but something you should try if you're having difficulty.

One question I do have is about the facelift driver's side door switch part. There is an issue when connection it to facelift CTR's where only the passenger-side window will operate with this control. Consequently I'm still using the switch part from my old doorcard. I know I am not the only person with this problem.

If anyone has a solution to achieve this. Like how to swap the plastic switches without buggering them up or whetever please post as this would be a very worthwhile addition to this thread.

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