The largest Civic Type R club forum

[rossi82]

IMPORTANT.....
In the haynes manual where it says to wind the piston back into the caliper, it gives a caution note in bold letters as follows:

Caution: Pushing back the piston causes a reverse-flow of fluid, which has been known to 'flip' the master cylinder rubber seals, resulting in a total loss of braking. To avoid this, clamp the caliper flexible hoses and open the bleed screw- as the piston is pushed back, the fluid can be directed into a suitable container using a hose attached to the bleed screw. Close the screw just before the piston is pushed fully back, to ensure no air enters the system.

I did this with a pair of mole grips and some cardboard to protect the hose, however my question is how do you do this if you have stainless steel braided hoses fitted? :scratch:

[mjhamilton]

IMPORTANT.....
In the haynes manual where it says to wind the piston back into the caliper, it gives a caution note in bold letters as follows:

Caution: Pushing back the piston causes a reverse-flow of fluid, which has been known to 'flip' the master cylinder rubber seals, resulting in a total loss of braking. To avoid this, clamp the caliper flexible hoses and open the bleed screw- as the piston is pushed back, the fluid can be directed into a suitable container using a hose attached to the bleed screw. Close the screw just before the piston is pushed fully back, to ensure no air enters the system.

I did this with a pair of mole grips and some cardboard to protect the hose, however my question is how do you do this if you have stainless steel braided hoses fitted? :scratch:

this could be an issue on any braking system.. the trick is to remove the filler cap first and wind the piston back slowly, winding too fast can cause the issue stated above but doing it slow and steady will alow the pressue not too build up to quickly :thumbup:

Undoing bleed nipples could just introduce other problems into the braking system and makes things far to complex

[rossi82]

Sweet :thumbup:

[mjhamilton]

Sweet :thumbup:

I will stress again before anyone starts shouting 'WIND BACK VERY SLOWLY'

[Juddian]

Hi all, my first post so be gentle.

Many thanks to Mr Bilko for a useful guide, excellent pics too.

Daughter just bought herself a 2.0 typeS, gave it a swift service today.
She mentioned the handbrake wasn't up to much so had a butchers and the pads are getting a bit worn and the discs past their best so decided to stick a set on.
The typeS rear brakes appear identical to the R type, having read through the How To made the job much easier than going in blind.

Many thanks, and hope you don't mind me pinching some knowledge from the R crew. :thumbup:

Judd.

[mr bilko!]

Blimey!! Was it really 2003 when I did this guide?

Glad folk are still finding it useful and it's encouraging them to have a go but please bear in mind that you do really need some mechanical knowledge before attempting to do the job.

[mikegarf]

I could have missed it but no one has mentioned if it's clockwise or anti clockwise to wind the piston back in.
I assume it's clockwise?

[rossi82]

I could have missed it but no one has mentioned if it's clockwise or anti clockwise to wind the piston back in.
I assume it's clockwise?

Iirc yes it is clockwise

[Night Hawk Ben]

Did one of the brake pads (not in your picture) have an arm on? I have new yellow stuff rears to go on and one of the ones with the locating bobble has this arm on it? There are the right ones so whats this bit for? See Pic

[rossi82]

It's a wear indicator, when the pad is nearly at the point where it needs changing this 'arm' will make contact with the disc and start squeeling.

[Night Hawk Ben]

It's a wear indicator, when the pad is nearly at the point where it needs changing this 'arm' will make contact with the disc and start squeeling.

really? How would it make contact with the disc if it sticks out from the back of the pad?

[rossi82]

It's a wear indicator, when the pad is nearly at the point where it needs changing this 'arm' will make contact with the disc and start squeeling.

really? How would it make contact with the disc if it sticks out from the back of the pad?

Fairly similar to this picture:

[Night Hawk Ben]

Cheers for that, how do I know which side of the car the pad with the wear indicator goes on? I don't want to do one side and then find it should have gone on the other or vice versa

[mjhamilton]

Cheers for that, how do I know which side of the car the pad with the wear indicator goes on? I don't want to do one side and then find it should have gone on the other or vice versa

you sure that the bottom left pad hasn't had the arm pulled off??.. IIRC most cars have a least one wear warning per hub :scratch:

[Night Hawk Ben]

it doesn't look like it ever had one on the other side, the knobbly bit is compressed to hold the metal wear indicator on and the other side isn't. it will be rare that one side wears before the other, especially on the rears. I see what you mean though.

[rossi82]

it doesn't look like it ever had one on the other side, the knobbly bit is compressed to hold the metal wear indicator on and the other side isn't. it will be rare that one side wears before the other, especially on the rears. I see what you mean though.

The knobbly bit is a rivet, just in case you wanted to know. I'd just get them fitted mate, not going to cause any harm at all.

[Night Hawk Ben]

do you need a right hand or left hand piston wind back tool for the type r? I know you can get tools that do both ways.

[rossi82]

I managed without when I did mine, something like a gasket scraper does the job fine. Just make sure that you push hard while you are turning, it's a little tight at first but it soon loosens up......er

[dubmas]

hi,
i fitted some mitex m1144 rear pads today. they fitted fine. but reading this again i realise there was no "pip" on the back of the pad that faces the piston "cross".
i therefore didnt align the cross on the piston to be at "12 oclock".

do you think this will have an adverse affect? ive taken it for a drive today and it seems fine.
i suppose the pip is added protection against the pad moving against the disc?
any ideas? has anyone noticed this on mintex pads?
cheers.
sam

[Newton]

I have a set of rear pads just the same no pip so this has to be an issue with the pads

as it must have something to do with stoping the piston turning

and what I can see is the piston turning and locking the rear brakes on may be wright or wrong

But some one will come up with the wright answer

Also this wear indicator is next to usless as stated it stickes out the wrong way